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Ocracoke Island

nsiders generally see Ocracoke as a tourist attraction during the warm months and romantic hideaway during the off-season, but this is a wonderful place to visit any time of the year. There's just no place like this quaint island with its pristine beaches and homey atmosphere. Nearly all development on the island surrounds Silver Lake in Ocracoke Village. The island is but a slender strip of sand, geographically much like the other Outer Banks islands. At its widest, the 16-mile-long island is only about 2 miles across, narrowing in some sections to a half-mile, where sound and sea are both visible from the two-lane road.

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Getting Here

Access to Ocracoke Island is limited to sea and air. A free 45-minute ferry ride across the waters of Pamlico Sound transports islanders and visitors to the north end of Ocracoke from Hatteras Island. From the ferry terminal at the north end of the island, it's a 12-mile drive past undeveloped marshlands and dunes to Ocracoke Village. Two toll ferries connect the island with the mainland. The Cedar Island and Swan Quarter ferries, each a two-and-a-half-hour ride, cost $15 per car and arrive and depart from the heart of Ocracoke Village on the southern end of the island. A small airfield allows private planes to land just outside of the village (see our Getting Here, Getting Around chapter).

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Island Economy and Tourism

Vacationers flock to Ocracoke during the warm months. Once a simple fishing village where islanders primarily lived off the sea, Ocracoke now operates as a vacation resort nine months out of the year. Tourism and traffic have changed the pace of this traditional fishing village, but the influx of visitors is necessary to maintain a healthy economy.

While many Ocracokers work at tourist-related businesses, year-round residents also are employed by the National Park Service, in the local school, in the building industry, or as commercial and recreational fishermen. The island's natural beauty and easy pace act as a magnet for artists, craftspeople, and writers.

Ocracoke Island offers a variety of sightseeing options that radiate from a core village atmosphere. You can ride bikes all over the island; it's best to explore the village by foot. You can park your vehicle after arriving on the island and not use it again until you leave. Make sure to stroll through the village, which surrounds Silver Lake. Wander the back roads: Specialty shops, galleries, and old island cottages are waiting to be discovered. Casually elegant restaurants and come-as-you-are eateries offer several meal choices, and friendly islanders will make recommendations, pointing you in the right direction (we outline more than a dozen spots in our Restaurants chapter).

Sailboats moor in the protected cove of Silver Lake, and charter and commercial fishing boats fill the downtown docks. You can book half- and full-day fishing excursions year-round. All accommodations-bed-and-breakfast inns, hotels, rental cottages, and private campgrounds-are close to the island's activity (see our Shopping, Fishing, and Accommodations chapters for details).

On the oceanside about halfway to the village from the Hatteras ferry dock, tents and camping trailers dot the secondary dunes. This popular National Park Service campground is open from late spring to early fall and requires advance reservations (see our Camping chapter). Our Attractions chapter describes the island's historic sites in detail. Make sure you take in the British Cemetery and the stately Ocracoke Inlet Lighthouse. Come January, the flow of visitors subsides, and islanders take a break from long, seven-day workweeks. Off-season tourists still can find accommodations.

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Yesteryear and Today

As the story goes, when the first English explorers arrived at Ocracoke, the island was attached to Hatteras Island and jointly they bore the name of Croatan. Old maps indicate that Ocracoke may once have been connected to its southern neighbor, Portsmouth Island, and together the islands were called Wokokon.

Names are great history trackers, and while there are many stories as to how Ocracoke was named, two theories hold most popular. One is that the name descended from Wokokon, not a far stretch from the island's current moniker. The Wokokons, a tribe of Native Americans, journeyed to Ocracoke to feast on seafood, historians say. A survey map from 1657 showed the island as Wococock. A more fanciful story surrounds the legend of Blackbeard, the pirate. It is said that on the morning of Blackbeard's demise, his assassin impatiently awaited the dawn and the coming of his enemy, looking ashore to the island and yelling, "O Crow Cock Crow! O Crow Cock!" The legendary Blackbeard, aka Edward Teach, is only a small part of Ocracoke history. And while there are several shops and a museum dedicated to his legend, some Ocracokers today don't care to place importance on the 18th-century villain. His fleet included four boats and 400 crewmen, and by the mid-1700s he'd plundered at least 25 ships.

During Blackbeard's era the need to improve trade and navigation along the coast became clear to the colonists of North Carolina. The Colonial assembly passed an act in 1715 to establish Ocracoke Island as a port and to maintain pilots and their assistants who helped guide ships safely from sea to shore at "Ocacock Inlett."

It was not until 1730 that the pilots actually came. Their numbers increased over the years, and 33 years later these "squatters" were given 20 acres of land for themselves and their families. By November 1779 the Ocracoke Militia Company was established to protect the inlet (see our History chapter).

In the colonial era, Ocracoke initially was owned by several inhabitants. Three successions of absentee owners followed. The fourth owner, William Howard, bought the island in 1759 and at his death deeded all his land to his son, Wallace Howard. Land was sold by both Howards to various families on the island. Descendants of the Howards reside on the island today. A family graveyard is near Village Craftsmen on Howard Street, a craft and gift shop run by Philip Howard. Walking down Howard Street is a step back in time, with its stately live oaks, the Howard Cemetery, the oldest homes on Ocracoke Island, right down to the oyster shells embedded in the narrow and rutted dirt road.

Ocracoke history is filled with stories of shipwrecks and lost lives. The islanders worked to rescue stranded sea travelers and ships, housing and feeding survivors. Crabs and a wide variety of seafood kept their bellies full. While the island inhabitants were forced to witness the ocean's wrath as it smashed ships and stole human life, as if in repayment the sea also provided for them, though sometimes in the most unlikely way. Wrecked ships tossed up goods, including lumber, shoes, clothing, and bananas. But these island luxuries were small in contrast to the toll the sea took as the churning waters swallowed not only sailors but also women and children.

In response, the Ocracoke Inlet Lighthouse was constructed in 1823. The white- brick structure has stood in Ocracoke Village for 181 years, guiding sailors to safety and housing residents during hurricanes (see our Attractions chapter). Also, several lifesaving stations were built on the island in the late 1800s and early 1900s. In 1940 a Coast Guard station was erected. Coast Guardsmen continue to watch over Ocracoke waters today, but the island lost eight Coast Guard families within the last few years when federal budget cuts forced a closing of the island's Coast Guard building. Service is still provided around the clock by a rotating group of 10 men, but the families were relocated to Hatteras Island. Modern technology has helped diminish the number of wrecks these days. When accidents do occur, they usually involve offshore fishing vessels caught by foul weather.

The dredging of Cockle Creek and creation of Silver Lake Harbor in 1931 played a role in Ocracoke's development as host to a sizable fishing industry. Access to the village was improved, and fairly large boats could safely enter and dock at the village. In 1953 most of the island became part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore, with the exception of the village. The first hard- surfaced road was constructed four years later, connecting the village to a spot near Hatteras Inlet. These changes came during a decline in the fishing industry.

Though tourism replaced fishing as Ocracoke's main source of income, islanders continue to ply the sea for food, fun, and livelihoods. Two fish houses operate throughout the year, and a variety of species including Spanish and king mackerel, bluefish, red drum, cobia, amberjack, tuna, and billfish are caught in sound, inlet, and ocean waters.

Gas and water shortages in the 1970s and '80s caused a decline in Ocracoke's boating traffic. Gas shortages were, of course, widespread, but water shortages were specific to Ocracoke Island. At that time, the only freshwater sources were individual wells and cisterns. With increased tourism and more demand placed upon wells, so much water was drawn that saltwater intrusion resulted. The ensuing severe water restrictions limited personal use to specific times of the day and forbade any outside use. Therefore, no water was available at the boat docks.

The water district has since constructed a water desalination plant, and now the island has enough fresh water for locals, tourists, and boaters. As on any island, electrical outages are not uncommon. Many local businesses operate their own electrical generators, and a municipal generator provides power in the event of extended outages due to storms. The generator is used in the event that an outage lasts more than four hours.

The year-round population of Ocracoke has not changed dramatically since 1850. Today about 750 people call Ocracoke Island home. Children in grades K-12 attend classes at the Ocracoke School. Community concerns are aired at the Ocracoke Community Center, where the Ocracoke Civic and Business Association meets. Welcome progress to the barrier island includes the addition of several vegetable stands, and the once totally isolated community supports two grocery stores and a hardware store.

Ocracoke Island's real estate market is busy. Even though a recent revaluation brought about tax increases of 200 to 300 percent for some property owners, the limited amount of property available is in high demand. The few available lots are mostly inland; it's rare to find a waterfront lot for sale. Only one to two canalfront lots sell per year. The island's beauty and isolation will always be a major drawing card. Situated on the eastern flyway of migrating land and waterbirds, Ocracoke is a birder's paradise, with brown pelicans flying in formation over the waves, sandpipers leaving thin footprints in the sand, herons gracing the salt marsh, and warblers, grosbeaks, and cardinals adorning the trees. Live oaks lend majesty and a sense of strength to the fragile isle.

Famous for its legendary wild ponies, Ocracoke has 180 fenced-in acres set aside for the small herd to roam, and visitors to the island can see a group of them at a special lookout midway down NC 12. The National Park Service rotates four ponies at a time from the range to a pen to let admirers get a close-up view (see our Attractions chapter).

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