Ocracoke Island

Ocracoke Pony Pens
NC 12, Ocracoke Island

The Ocracoke Pony Pens are one of the most popular attractions on Ocracoke Island. The National Park Service maintains a herd of about 30 horses in a 180-acre pasture located off NC 12, about 6 miles south of the Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry docks. Visitors can walk up to the pens to view these once-wild horses. An observation platform allows a good view of the ponies.

Ocracoke ponies have played a large role in the history of the island. At times the herd's population ranged from 200 to 500, all of the animals roaming free on the island.

No one is really certain how the horses arrived at the island, but legend says they swam ashore from Spanish shipwrecks off the coast. The horses adapted well to a diet of marsh grasses and rainwater. The locals used this natural resource for work and recreation, and even the Coast Guard and U.S. Lifesaving Service employed the ponies. In the 1950s the local Boy Scout troop practiced lassoing them.

When NC 12 was paved along the island in 1957, horse-car accidents became a problem. The herd was also causing extensive damage to dune vegetation, contributing to beach erosion. The National Park Service wanted to get rid of the entire herd, but islanders protested so strongly that the Park Service agreed to keep some of the ponies contained on the island. They were penned in 1960, where they still are today. Their shelters, food, and veterinary care are funded partly by donations. The pen is free to visit, but donations are certainly welcome. Though not running wild, the ponies are not tame, and they may try to kick or bite if you try to climb into the pen or feed or pet them.

Ocracoke ponies have distinctive physical characteristics: 5 lumbar vertebrae instead of the 6 found in other horses, 17 ribs instead of the 18 found in other horses, and a unique shape, posture, color, size, and weight. For more information see the Ocracoke Island section of our Area Overview chapter.

Hammock Hills Nature Trail
NC 12, Ocracoke Island

A 0.75-mile nature trail north of Ocracoke Village, Hammock Hills covers a cross- section of the island. The 30-minute walk begins near the sand dunes, traverses a maritime forest, and winds through a salt marsh. Hikers learn how plants adapt to Ocracoke's unusual elements and the harsh barrier island weather.

Bring your camera on this scenic stroll. We highly recommend bug repellent in spring and summer months. Watch out for snakes in the underbrush. The well-marked trailhead is on NC 12 just across the road from the National Park Service campground.

Ocracoke Island Visitor Center
NC 12, Ocracoke Village
(252) 928-4531

The National Park Service's Ocracoke Island Visitor Center, at the southern end of NC 12, is full of information about the island. It's in a small building with a large lawn next to the Cedar Island ferry docks. If you're arriving on the island from the Hatteras ferry, stay on the main road, turn right at Silver Lake, and continue around the lake counterclockwise until you see the low brown building on your right. Free parking is available at the visitor center.

Inside, there's an information desk, helpful staff, a small bookshop, and exhibits about Ocracoke. You can arrange to use the Park Service's docks here and pick up maps of the winding back roads that make great bicycle paths. The visitor center is open March through December from 9:00 A.M.to 5:00 P.M. Hours are extended in the summer. Rangers offer a variety of free summer programs, including a beach walk, a walk through the village, turtle talks, a pirate play, snorkeling, an evening campfire, kids programs, and more. Programs last from 30 to 90 minutes and offer a fun way to learn more about the history and ecology of the island. Check at the front desk for changing weekly schedules. Restrooms are open to the public in season.

Ocracoke Island Museum and Preservation Society
Silver Lake, Ocracoke Village
(252) 928-7375

A visit to the Ocracoke Island Museum provides a wonderful peek into Ocracoke as it once was. The home of Coast Guard Capt. David Williams, the historic, two- story house was moved to this location in 1989 and restored to its former early 19thcentury glory by the Ocracoke Preservation Society. The original wainscoting, floors, staircases, and wood-burning stove are still intact. Inside, a bedroom, living room, and kitchen are set up with period furnishings donated by local families. Original photographs of island natives are throughout. Exhibits about fishing and seafaring are especially interesting, as is the exhibit on the island's traditional brogue.

Upstairs, the museum has a small research library that the public can use with the museum personnel's permission. Admission is free, and the museum is open from Easter through the end of November. In summer, hours are 10:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. Monday through Friday and 11:00 A.M.to 4:00 P.M.Saturday and Sunday. Off-season hours are 11:00 A.M.to 4:00 P.M. Monday through Saturday.

Ocracoke Village Walking Tour
West end of NC 12, around Ocracoke Village

The easiest ways to explore Ocracoke are by bicycle and on foot. The narrow, winding back lanes weren't meant for cars. And you miss little landmarks and interesting areas of the island if you drive through. People on Ocracoke are generally friendly, and you'll get a chance to chat with more locals if you slow down your touring pace through this picturesque fishing village.

No matter where you are in Ocracoke Village, just start walking and you'll find something interesting. One nice tour of the northeast side of the village starts at the Ocracoke Island Visitor Center. Park in the lot opposite the visitor center. Turn left out of the lot and walk down NC 12 around the shores of Silver Lake, past the sleepy village waterfront. You'll pass many small shops, boutiques, and some large hotels. Keep walking until you see a small brick post office on your right.

Opposite the post office, a sandy, narrow street angles to the left. This is Howard Street. It winds through one of the oldest and least-changed parts of the village. Note the humble old homes, the attached cisterns for collecting rainwater, and the detached kitchens behind these historic structures.

Continue walking past or stop in Village Craftsman, a gallery. After about 400 yards, Howard Street empties onto School Street. Turn left, and you'll see the Methodist Church and K-12 public school that serves all the children on Ocracoke. With graduating classes of fewer than a dozen students, this is the state's smallest public school. The church is usually open for visitors, but use discretion if services are in progress. And please wipe your feet as you go in. On entering, note the cross displayed behind the altar. It was carved from the wooden spar of an American freighter, the Caribsea, sunk offshore by German U-boats in the early months of 1942. By strange coincidence, the Caribsea's engineer was Ocracoke native James Baugham Gaskill, who was killed when the boat sank. Local residents say that several days later a display case holding Gaskill's mate license, among other things, washed ashore not far from his family home.

On Tuesday night at 7:30 P.M. (7:00 P.M. in the off-season), meet at the Village Craftsmen on Howard Street in Ocracoke Village. Local storyteller Philip Howard will take you on a 90-minute tour of the area complete with ghost stories and historical information. Space is limited, so call ahead: (252) 928-5541. The cost is $12.00 for adults and $6.00 for children ages 6 to 12. Ocracoke has had a Methodist church since 1828. The current one was built in 1943 with lumber and pews salvaged from older buildings. A historical-sketch pamphlet is available in the vestibule for visitors. On leaving the church, walk around the north corner of the school, past the playground, onto a narrow boardwalk. This wooden path leads to a paved road beyond it. Turn left. This was the first paved road on the island and was constructed by Seabees during World War II. After walking less than a mile down this road, turn right at the first stop sign. A few minutes' walk along this narrow, tree-shaded street brings you to the British Cemetery, where victims of World War II are buried far away from their native soil. (See the subsequent listing in this section.) It's on your right, set back a bit from the road and shaded by live oak and yaupon. The big British flag makes it easy to spot. To return to the visitor center, walk west until you reach Silver Lake, then turn right. You'll pass craft shops and several boutiques along the way. (See our Shopping chapter for details.) If the weather's nice, we suggest a stop for an outdoor drink at the waterfront Jolly Roger, the Creekside Cafe upstairs above the bicycle stand, or Howard's Pub on the highway before heading back to the ferry docks. (See the Ocracoke Island section of our Area Overview chapter for additional information.)

Ocracoke Lighthouse
Southwest corner of Ocracoke Village

The southernmost of the Outer Banks's four lighthouses, this whitewashed tower is the oldest and shortest. It is the second-oldest lighthouse in the nation. It stands 77.5 feet tall and has an askew iron-railed tower set on the top. The lighthouse is not open for tours or climbing, but volunteers occasionally staff its broad base, offering historical talks and answering visitors' questions. Inquire about possible staffing times at the visitor center or National Park Service offices. Ocracoke's lighthouse still operates, emitting one long flash every few seconds from a half-hour before sunset to a half-hour after sunrise. It was built in 1823 to replace Shell Castle Rock Lighthouse, which was set offshore closer to the dangerous shoals in Ocracoke Inlet. Shell Castle Light was abandoned in 1798 when the inlet shifted south. The beam from Ocracoke's beacon rotates 360 degrees and can be seen 14 miles out to sea. The tower itself is brick, covered by hand-spread, textured white mortar. The walls are 5 feet thick at the base. On the right side of the wooden boardwalk leading to the lighthouse, a two-story white cottage once served as quarters for the tower's keeper. The National Park Service renovated this structure in the 1980s. It now serves as the home of Ocracoke's rangers and the structure's maintenance supervisor. To reach the light, turn left off NC 12 at the Island Inn and go about 800 yards down the two-lane street. You can park near a white picketed turnoff on the right. Visitors must walk the last few yards down the boardwalk to the lighthouse.

Albert Styron's General Store
Point Road, Ocracoke Village
(252) 928-6819

One of the oldest establishments on Ocracoke Island, Styron's General Store opened in its present location in 1920. Former owner Al Styron tore down his family's store on Hog Island, near Cedar Island, and loaded the cypress walls into his boat. He carted Styron's Store to Ocracoke and rebuilt the business there. Today, Styron's great-granddaughter, Candy Gaskill, runs the family business. The store has been expanded over the years, but the front room retains some of its past, proudly displayed amidst the newfangled fodder: Burgundy leather-bound ledgers contain records of every transaction made in the store since 1925. The antique, gilt cash register that Al Styron installed is on display in the store. The former feed scale holds storeroom keys. The original safe and a multidrawer rolltop desk all are displayed and used, as they have been for nearly a half-century. Besides food, wine, and general merchandise, Styron's offers two wooden tables and a dozen ladder-backed chairs for customers to sit and sip one of Candy's locally famous fresh milk shakes. Excellent sandwiches and take-out items are available. Styron's store sits on the Point Road, about two blocks before the lighthouse. It's open from 8:00 A.M.to 5:00 P.M. Monday through Saturday, and from 10:00 A.M.to 5:00 P.M. on Sunday. The store stays open later during summer months. Styron's is closed January through March.

British Cemetery
British Cemetery Road, Ocracoke Village

Beneath a stand of trees, on the edge of a community cemetery, four granite gravestones commemorate the crew of the British vessel HMS Bedfordshire. This 170foot trawler was one of a fleet of 24 antisubmarine ships that Prime Minister Winston Churchill loaned the United States in April 1942 to stave off German U-boats. On May 11 of that year, a German submarine torpedoed and sank the British ship about 40 miles south of Ocracoke.

All four officers and 33 enlisted men aboard the Bedfordshire drowned. U.S. Coast Guard officers stationed on Ocracoke found four of the bodies washed ashore three days later. They were able to identify two of the sailors. Townspeople gave Britain a 12-by-14-foot plot of land and buried the seamen in a site adjacent to the island's cemetery.

Since then, Coast Guard officers have maintained the grassy area within a white picket fence. They fly a British flag above the graves, and each year, on the anniversary of the sailors' deaths, the local military establishment sponsors a ceremony honoring the men who died so far from their own shores.

Deepwater Theater
School Road, Ocracoke
www.molassescreek.com

Deepwater Theater is the home of Ocracoke's most famous band, Molasses Creek. This high-energy acoustic folk-fusion band plays bluegrass and ballads and rolls everything together with a wacky sense of humor. Gary Mitchell, Kitty Mitchell, and fiddler Dave Tweedie compose the band, which has a loyal following in the United States and abroad. Based on the island, they play here all summer and at other times of the year. Molasses Creek also performs all over the nation, and it was featured on National Public Radio's A Prairie Home Companion with Garrison Keillor. Molasses Creek plays at Deepwater Theater on Tuesday and Thursday in summer. The screened-in-porch-style Deepwater Theater hosts other musicians as well, including singer-songwriter Noah Paley. Ocrafolk Opry is held on Wednesday night. There's no phone number, so when you get to the island ask around.

Portsmouth Village
South of Ocracoke Island, by private boat access, Portsmouth Island
(252) 728-2250
www.nps.gov/calo

The only ghost town on the Eastern Seaboard, Portsmouth Village is about a 20-minute boat ride south of Ocracoke Island and was once the biggest town on the Outer Banks. Today, the 23-mile-long, 1.5-mile-wide island is owned and managed by the National Park Service as part of Cape Lookout National Seashore. Wilderness camping, hiking, shelling, fishing, and other activities are available on the wide beach. Free, self-guided walking tours of the village are a fascinating way to see how islanders lived in the 19th century.

Visiting Portsmouth Village is utterly surreal. Many of the former homes and village buildings are intact and restored, but they sit hollow, yet hopeful, as if waiting to come to life. Peeking into the windows of some of the unrestored buildings, you'll see remnants of the families who once lived there-curtains, unmade beds, upturned old chairs, broken frames-as if they left in a hurry and never came back.

Portsmouth Village was established in 1753. Situated along the banks of a major trade route, Ocracoke Inlet, Portsmouth became known as a "lightering" village.

Large ships could not pass through the inlet with a full load of cargo, so the Portsmouth villagers unloaded the cargo onto small flatboats while the ships passed through the inlet. On the other side, they put all the cargo back onboard and sent the big ships off to the mainland. When the more navigable Hatteras Inlet opened in 1846, lightering at Portsmouth was no longer needed. The Civil War and hurricanes drove Portsmouth residents inland over the next century, until only three residents remained on the island in 1970, two women and one man. When the man died in 1971, the two aging women reluctantly left the island. The National Park Service began restoring the village in 1976. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

There is a visitor center on-site, staffed by volunteers who commit to living on the island for extended periods of time. You can see the old post office, the church, the old Coast Guard station, and other buildings. Some of the homes are private, their owners granted extended leases in exchange for restoration work. Portsmouth Island is a rugged adventure, and there are few conveniences. Rest- rooms are provided in the visitor center, and there's a comfort station (toilets only) on the other side of the village. You must bring your own water, food, insect repellent, and sunscreen. Mosquitoes are notorious in the summer and fall.

You can get to the island by private boat or with a charter service. Capt. Rudy Austin runs round-trip boat trips to the island, daily in summer and by appointment in the off-season. Call at least one day in advance for reservations, (252) 928-4361 or (252) 928-5431. Portsmouth Island ATV Excursions, (252) 928-4484, leads guided tours of the village and island on ATVs from April through November. Call for reservations and information.