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Pirates also found the dark coves and creeks along the rivers ideal for subversive activities and, of course, for hiding treasures. Blackbeard supposedly stayed in a huge house by the Neuse, where he planned his raids on oceangoing ships carrying rich cargo between the American colonies, England and the West Indies. New Bern can credit its gentility to its once-thriving plantations that produced exportable products to be shipped around the world. The plantations themselves often became small towns, but today little remains of the beautiful estates that depended on the dark waters of the Neuse and Trent rivers for livelihoods. What does remain are the moss-hung oak and cypress trees guarding the many creeks and sloughs along the winding Trent and broad Neuse. Like other cities, New Bern endured the pangs of growth and change, eventually developing a character all its own. It did not, however, forget its past. History taught New Bern many hard lessons, one of which was to value its heritage. To that end, a great number of old homes and churches have been restored, and, in cases of potential loss, relocated, thanks to groups such as the New Bern Preservation Foundation. Salvaged structures now number more than 150, and restoration efforts are continuous. For more about the city's history, see our New Bern chapter. While the historical sites, homes and buildings are the focal points of New Bern, the art and cultural events of the town are constant attractions. A large community of reputable visual artists grace New Bern with their work, which is often exhibited at the Bank of the Arts, the public library and commercial art galleries (see our New Bern Arts chapter). Performing arts events and festivals occur year round (see our New Bern Annual Events chapter). Not listed in many guidebooks (except this one) but known to New Bernians are the town's churches, each distinctive and worthy of a sightseeing visit. Of the area's many historic houses of worship, it is perhaps Christ Episcopal Church on Pollock Street that has the most interesting lore. Included in the church's regalia is a silver communion service donated by King George II. The service survived two fires and reconstruction. According to local history, the communion service was stolen in the 1960s or '70s. The thief, so goes the tale, fenced it with a man who recognized it for what it was and returned it to the church. For more information on New Bern's churches, see our New Bern Worship chapter. In addition to the official sights of New Bern, walking tours of the historic district are very popular. Attractions open to the public primarily focus on the town's history; however, many of the historic homes are private residences and are closed to the public. Nonetheless, walking the streets and viewing the architecture and landscapes of these grand old homes will give you the feel of the city's Colonial heritage. Most of the attractions are within walking distance of each other, and we have listed a number of the sites here. For heritage walking tour information, including maps focusing on historic homes, the Civil War, New Bern's African-American heritage, and historic churches and cemeteries, let your first stop be the New Bern-Craven County Convention and Visitors Bureau, located in the New Bern Riverfront Convention Center at the corner of East and South Front Streets, (252) 637-9400 or (800) 437-5767. Everyone there is very helpful with orienting you to the town. Hours are Monday through Friday 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturday 10 AM to 4 PM and (between Memorial Day and Labor Day) Sundays from 10 AM to 2 PM. For those who enjoy the
woodlands as well as the city, nearby Croatan National Forest provides a
close-up look at coastal marshes, estuaries and forest. The 157,000-acre
preserve is home to insectivorous plants, uncommon wildflowers, marsh
and shore birds, and a variety of forest animals such as black bears,
alligators, deer and wild turkeys. Forest hiking trails and overnight
campsites are popular with nature lovers. For a detailed description,
see our
Crystal Coast Attractions chapter. |
The
importance of New Bern's
history cannot be overemphasized. The city of New Bern was settled in
1710 (New Bern celebrates its Tercentennial in 2010) at the confluence
of the Neuse and Trent rivers and began to flourish as a farming and
shipping community. The city soon became an important port, exporting
naval stores and, later, tobacco and cotton. The captains of the ships
that hauled these high-demand products used the spires of New Bern's
churches to guide them up the Neuse River, which at the time had few
navigational aids or other landmarks. Several of the older homes in New
Bern have widow's walks projecting above the roofs, where wives would
watch for their husbands' ships returning from long sea voyages.
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Tryon Palace Historic Sites and
Gardens Tryon Palace, built in 1770 by Royal Governor William Tryon, was known at the time as one of the most beautiful buildings in America. After its use both as a Colonial and state capitol, the palace fell into disrepair. The main building burned in 1798 and the kitchen office was dismantled in the early nineteenth century. When reconstruction was undertaken in the 1950s, only one wing — the stables — remained standing. The palace now houses an outstanding collection of antiques and art, and the grounds are devoted to extensive landscaping, ranging from English formal gardens and a kitchen garden to wilderness garden areas. Included as part of the main palace complex are the John Wright Stanly House (1783) on George Street, the George W. Dixon House (1828) on Pollock Street and the Robert Hay House (1810) on Eden Street. The Stanly home, which was originally on New Street and moved to its present location in the 1960s, was built by a Revolutionary War patriot. George Washington stayed in this house for two nights in 1791. The Dixon House is a prominent Federal-style home noted for its rare neoclassical antiques. The restoration of the 1810 Robert Hay House on Eden Street is an accurate reflection of the lifestyle technology of its period. Palace tours take place daily, with special tours added during the Christmas season. A self-guided interior tour of the Kitchen Office focuses on the behind-the-scenes tasks necessary to maintain the daily eighteenth-century operations of the palace and its occupants. Annual events include the colorful Colonial Christmas and candlelight tours in December, the Decorative Arts Symposium in March, Gardener's Weekend during New Bern's Historic Homes and Gardens Tour in the spring, and the July Independence Day Celebration (see our New Bern Annual Events chapter for more about these events). The African-American Lecture Series and the African-American Walking Tours run monthly from spring through fall. Blacksmithing and weaving are also among regular crafts demonstrations. The palace gift shop in the Jones House and the crafts and garden shop behind the palace west wing are open during regular palace hours. An audiovisual orientation program is shown at the visitors center. The palace is open year round, Monday
through Saturday 9 AM to 5 PM and on Sunday from 1 to 5 PM. The last
tour begins at 4 PM. The palace is closed on Thanksgiving Day,
December 24 through 26 and New Year's Day. A number of tour options
are available, including two-day and annual passes, and group
discounts are extended to pre-arranged groups of 20 or more. General
admission is $15 for adults and $6 for students in grades 1 through
12. These tickets are valid for two consecutive days. Active-duty
military families get a discount. Children in kindergarten or
younger get in free. For specific tour price information or group
reservations, call the numbers above. The historic sites and gardens
are partially equipped for disabled visitors. John Wright Stanly House On his Southern tour in 1791,
President George Washington dined and danced at Tryon Palace, but
his two nights in New Bern were spent at the nearby home of John
Wright Stanly. Stanly died of yellow fever in 1789, but New Bern
residents reopened and refurnished the residence, then located on
Middle Street, just for Washington's visit. Washington described his
overnight accommodation as "exceeding good lodgings." During the
Revolutionary War, Stanly's merchant ships plied the waters as
privateers, capturing British ships to aid the American cause. The
elegance of Stanly's house, built in the early 1780s, reflects the
wealth of its owner. Distinctive American furniture of the period
complements the elegant interior woodwork. The Stanly family history
provides a fascinating chronicle of father and son, epidemic and
duel, war and wealth. Admission is included as part of the Tryon
Palace Complex admission. George W. Dixon House The Dixon House, built in 1828,
epitomizes New Bern's lifestyle in the first half of the nineteenth
century, when the town was a prosperous port and one of the state's
largest cities. The house, built for a New Bern merchant, is a fine
example of neoclassical architecture. Its furnishings, reflecting
the Federal period, reveal the changing tastes of early America. The
house was converted into a regimental hospital when Union troops
occupied New Bern during the Civil War. Admission is included in the
Tryon Palace Complex ticket. Robert Hay House The tour of the Robert Hay House
provides insight into the lives and society of middle-class
craftsmen and artisans essential to everyday life in the early
nineteenth century. Scottish-born Robert Hay was a skilled craftsman
of carriages and riding chairs. He purchased the house in 1816 and
lived there until his death in 1850. The original structure,
purchased for $1,000, was a single heated room on the first and
second floors, with a cellar kitchen and large cooking fireplace.
Hay enlarged the house between 1820 and 1830 with a rear addition
consisting of a double porch and two small heated rooms. The house
gives visitors a firsthand experience with early nineteenth-century
methods of climate control. Winter heating is provided by working
fireplaces in the parlor and working kitchen, and summertime cooling
is provided by using the open doors and windows to harness the
breeze off the nearby Trent River. In addition, louvered shutters on
the sunny sides of the house are closed to block the sun's hot rays.
The Robert Hay House, which was opened to the public in late 1998,
has been restored to the appearance it had between 1830 and 1850.
The house is furnished with accurate reproductions made by skilled
woodworkers using traditional hand methods, a tactic necessary
because the house is not equipped with the modern climate controls
needed to protect the antiques. Admission to the Hay House is
included as part of the Tryon Palace Complex ticket. New Bern Academy Museum Founded in 1764 and built in 1809,
New Bern Academy is the oldest public school building in North
Carolina and one of the oldest in America. It was still used as a
school recently enough to have been attended by some of New Bern's
current residents. After it closed, it sat vacant for several years
before being purchased and renovated in the 1980s by Tryon Palace.
Today, the museum houses exhibits illustrating the 300-year-old
history of New Bern and eastern North Carolina, including exhibits
on architecture, education and the Civil War (during which it was
used as a hospital). The academy is open Monday through Saturday
from 1 to 4:30 PM, with admission charged as part of the Tryon
Palace Complex admission. Walking Tour AttractionsAs we mentioned in the introduction, many of New Bern's historic homes are private residences and therefore not open to the public. However, a leisurely stroll along riverwalks through the historic district will allow you to observe the landscapes, architecture and gardens of these vintage homes. Walking also will give you a real sense of the many Old World customs that characterize this Colonial town. The New Bern-Craven County Convention & Visitors Bureau, located in the New Bern Riverfront Convention Center at the corner of East and South Front Streets, has several self-guided walking tour maps covering different aspects of New Bern's long and interesting historical heritage, including the Civil War era and the town's historic churches and cemeteries. New Bern Tours offers guided walking tours for 10 or more people by reservation, (252) 637-7316. A few of the town's more notable residences and buildings are listed here. Please note that most of these homes are private residences and are not open to the public. •The John Horner Hill House, 713
Pollock Street, is a Georgian-period dwelling built between 1770 and
1780. It is noted for its rare nine-over-nine sash at the
first-floor windows. African-American Walking Tours Tryon Palace Historic Sites & Gardens offers a monthly African-American walking tour in spring, summer and fall. The walking tour, which lasts about 90 minutes and covers 16 blocks, features 300 years of African-American history. There is a fee charged for this tour, and reservations are required. For information, call (252) 514-4900 or (800) 767-1560. The Craven County Tourism Development Authority offers a series of self-guided walking tours, one of which covers New Bern's African-American history. The tour sheet is available at the Craven County Convention and Visitors Center at the corner of East and South Front Streets and it details historic sites important to local African-American heritage. These include churches, businesses, residences and social organizations, a few of which are described below. •The George H. White House at 519
Johnson Street was the home of lawyer George H. White, who was
elected to the U.S. House of Representatives in 1897. He later fled
to Philadelphia and was the last African American in Congress from
the South until the 1960s. Attmore-Oliver Civil War House Museum The Attmore-Oliver Civil War House
Museum was originally built in 1790 by prominent New Bernian Samuel
Chapman. Today, it serves as a house museum for the New Bern
Historical Society. It was enlarged to its present size in 1834 and
houses eighteenth- and nineteenth-century antiques, a doll
collection and Civil War memorabilia. Of particular interest are the
fine Greek Revival portico and two-story porches at the rear of the
house. The house is open in April on the weekends; call for times
and days. The house can be shown to groups by appointment and can be
rented for private functions. Be aware, however, that it is not
handicapped accessible. Christ Episcopal Church More than 260 years old, Christ
Episcopal Church is the oldest in New Bern and one of the oldest in
North Carolina. This is actually the third church building to stand
in this area. The first was completed in 1750 and was later
destroyed by fire. The foundation of that first church is on the
current church grounds. The second church was completed in 1824 and
destroyed by fire in 1871. The church you see today was completed in
1875; it is a Gothic Revival building that incorporates surviving
walls of that second church. The steeple, with its four-faced clock,
is one of the identifying marks of the downtown skyline. Among the
treasures on display are a 1752 Book of Common Prayer, a huge 1717
Bible and a five-piece silver communion service given to Christ
Church by King George II. Each bears the royal coat-of-arms. Call
for a tour of the church. Centenary United Methodist Church First organized as a congregation in 1772,
the current Centenary United Methodist Church was designed by Herbert
Woodley Simpson and completed in 1905. Its rounded walls and turrets have an
almost Moorish look. Guided tours, which are available weekdays between 9 AM
and 4 PM, begin with a stop by the church office.
First Presbyterian Church The oldest continually used church building
in New Bern, First Presbyterian was built in 1819–22 by local architect and
builder Uriah Sandy. The congregation was established in 1817. The
Federal-style church is similar to many built around the same time in New
England but is unusual in North Carolina. Like that of Christ Church, the
steeple on First Presbyterian is a point of reference on the skyline. The
church was used as a Union hospital and lookout post during the Civil War,
and the initials of soldiers on duty in the belfry can still be seen carved
in the walls. Tours between 9 AM and 2 PM weekdays are self-guided, but
visitors should stop by the church office first.
Craven Arts Council & Gallery/Bank
of the Arts Built in 1911, this interesting
granite structure once served as a bank but now houses the
headquarters for the Craven Arts Council and Gallery. The classical
facade of the building features Ionic columns leading into the open,
two-story gallery. Changing exhibits of various media — painting,
sculpture, photography, pottery, fiber art and other art forms —
showcase the work of local and Southeastern artists. Many special
events, such as concerts, lectures and receptions are offered here
throughout the year. The Bank of the Arts does not charge an
admission fee (donations are welcome), and visitors are welcome to
browse. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM to 6 PM. The
building is handicapped accessible. The Firemen's Museum The New Bern Fire Department is one
of the oldest in the country, still operating under its original
1845 charter as the Atlantic Hook and Ladder Company. The museum
houses steam pumpers and an extensive collection of other early
fire-fighting equipment. Also on exhibit are rare photographs, Civil
War relics and even the mounted head of Fred, the faithful old fire
horse who, according to legend, died in his tracks while answering
what turned out to be a false alarm. The museum is open year-round
Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM. Admission is $5 for
adults and $2.50 for children. Children younger than 6 get in free. Cedar Grove Cemetery If you're one of those people who
loves wandering through old graveyards, you'll not want to miss this
one. Statuary and monuments beneath Spanish moss–draped trees mark
burial traditions from the earliest days of our nation. One smallish
obelisk lists the names of nine children in one family who all died
within a two-year time span. The city's monument to its Confederate
dead and the graves of 70 soldiers are also here. The cemetery's
main gate features a shell motif, with an accompanying legend that
says if water drips on you as you enter, you will be the next to
arrive by hearse. New Bern National Cemetery Encompassing nearly eight acres, New
Bern National Cemetery was established in 1867 as a final resting
place for veterans. The grounds where the cemetery was established
were once the site of military drills by occupying forces during the
Civil War. Once inside the gates, visitors are impressed by row
after row of matching government standard-issue white marble
gravestones, precisely lined. Also on the grounds are Civil War
monuments dedicated during the early twentieth century to the fallen
of companies of New Jersey, Rhode Island, Connecticut and
Massachusetts. The cemetery is the site of a Memorial Day service
every year. New Bern Trolley Tours Touring the town by trolley is a
comfortable and interesting alternative to a walking tour. Narrated
90-minute tours depart the corner of Pollock and George Streets, and
tickets can be purchased either on the trolley car or at the trolley
office at 333 Middle Street. During the months of January and
February, call for tour times. April through October, tours are
scheduled for 11 AM and 2 PM Monday through Saturday and 2 PM on
Sunday. In July and August, tours are set for 9 AM and 11 AM Monday
through Saturday and 2 PM on Sunday. Tours or charters for special
groups or occasions may also be arranged. Professional guides
narrate the tours with attention to historical and architectural
interests and spice the narrative with folklore and local knowledge.
Special 90-minute tours focusing on Civil War history and
African-American history are available by charter. Trolley
tours cost $15 for adults and $7 for children 12 and younger. Croatan National Forest Croatan National Forest is an expansive nature preserve bordered by New Bern, Morehead City and Cape Carteret. The district ranger's office is on Fisher Avenue, which is approximately 9 miles south of New Bern just off U.S. Highway 70 East. Well-placed road signs make the office easy to find. Due to its coastal location, the forest has many unique features. Some of the ecosystems present include pocosins, longleaf and loblolly pine, and bottomland and upland hardwoods. Sprinkled throughout the Croatan are 40 miles of streams and 4,300 acres of wild lakes. Black bears, otters, deer, raptors and many other forest creatures live in this coastal woodland. Within the forest's boundaries are insectivorous plants such as the Venus flytrap, butterworts, pitcher plants, sundews and bladderworts, which find the forest an ideal habitat. These rare plants are protected by law. The forest is also well-known for its beautiful wildflowers. Pamphlets on the wildflowers and insectivorous plants are available at the district ranger's office. The forest areas are excellent for
hiking, swimming, boating, hunting, fishing and picnicking. Miles
and miles of unpaved roads lace through the woodland, providing easy
if sometimes roundabout access to its wilderness. Recreation areas
are available for a day's outing or for longer visits. Camping fees
vary, so call the district ranger's office for seasonal rates.
Because the Croatan is so expansive and undeveloped, it is best to
stop in at the district ranger's office on Fisher Avenue and pick up
a forest map before heading out. The best times for venturing into
coastal woodlands are fall, winter or early spring. Summer can be
very hot and buggy, so prepare yourself with insect repellent. For
more information on the Croatan National Forest, see our
Crystal Coast Attractions chapter. Tradewind Aviation Scenic Rides What could be a more interesting and
unusual way to see New Bern than to see it from the air? Tradewind
Aviation, based at Craven Regional Airport, offers reasonably
priced, 30-minute and one-hour tours for one to three passengers
aboard a Cessna 172.
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