If you venture a little farther north than Ocracoke, you will discover all of North Carolina's Outer Banks. Of course, once you leave Ocracoke on the Ocracoke-Hatteras Inlet Ferry, you really aren't daytripping anymore — you're traveling. The Hatteras Inlet Ferry, a 30-minute trip, puts passengers off at Hatteras Village. From there, N.C. 12 strings along the narrow islands all the way up to Corolla at the northern tip of North Carolina's Outer Banks.
 

OK, so a trip to Lake Mattamuskeet might require a bit more than a day. We have included it in the Daytrips chapter because it seems like an appropriate side journey if you make the jaunt to Oriental, Bath or Belhaven. The expansive wildlife refuge is on U.S. Highway 264, and well-placed road signs make it easy to find.

Lake Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge stretches from Englehard on the east to Swan Quarter on the west. The refuge's 50,180 acres of water, marsh, timber and croplands are managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. This beautiful area lies in the middle of the Atlantic Flyway. From October to March, the shallow 40,000-acre lake, which is said to be no deeper than a swan's neck, is a winter refuge for many migrating birds.

Waterfowl populations are at their peak from December through February, and so are bird-watchers. According to refuge information, 35,000 tundra swans winter at Mattamuskeet, and more than 150,000 birds gather at the lake between October and March. Thousands of snow and Canada geese and 22 species of ducks are seasonal inhabitants. The refuge provides habitat for osprey, red-tailed hawks, coots, blue herons, green-winged teals, black and ruddy ducks, cormorants, widgeons, mergansers, loons and many other birds. The refuge is also home to otters, bobcats, deer and black bears. Several endangered bird species, such as the peregrine falcon and the bald eagle, seek refuge around the lake. The refuge provides public hunting of swans, ducks and coots in season. For information on hunting, contact the refuge manager at (252) 926-4021.

The 18-mile-long and 5- to 6-mile-wide lake is the state's largest natural lake, making it and its adjacent canals a popular spot for boating and sport fishing. Largemouth bass, striped bass, catfish, bream and other species can be taken from March 1 to November 1. Fishing is excellent in the canals and along the lake shore in spring and fall.

Catching blue crabs is a very popular sport enjoyed by all ages and is permitted year round from the water control structures. All fishing activities must be conducted in accordance with state regulations. Bow-fishing for carp and other rough fish is permitted during the fishing season.

Prohibited activities in the refuge include herring dipping, camping, littering, swimming, molesting wildlife and collecting plants, flowers, nuts or berries. Fires and firearms are also prohibited without special authorization. The speed limit on refuge roads is 25 miles per hour, and no vehicles, such as overland vehicles or trail bikes, are allowed outside regularly used roads and trails. Boats may not be left on the refuge overnight without a special-use permit.

The Lake Mattamuskeet Lodge is the former pumping plant constructed in the early 1900s in an investment effort to convert the lake bottom to agricultural land and model community patterned after similar projects in Holland. The bankruptcy of one company after another in this effort led to its eventual abandonment, and the land was acquired by the U.S. Government in 1934 for the establishment of a waterfowl sanctuary. The pumping station was converted to a lodge for visitors and hunters and operated until 1974. It is now a National Historic Site of architectural and historic interest.

Plans to renovate the lodge as an environmental education center are in motion as a coordinated effort of several nonprofit organizations. The building is currently closed due to structural problems from extensive corrosion. Funding has been appropriated by Congress to correct these problems, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service is currently developing plans to stabilize the building.

During the fall migration, a couple of weekend events make Lake Mattamuskeet an exciting destination. In early November, an annual Mattamuskeet Fun Ride is organized by the Hyde County Chamber of Commerce. Bicyclists may choose to take a 35-, 45- or 70-mile course around and across the lake. The courses begin and end at the lodge and offer lots of waterfowl viewing opportunities. The first weekend of December, Swan Days celebrate the annual return of tundra swan and other waterfowl for the winter. At the refuge, visitors may enjoy the exhibition and sale of native crafts, decoys and local food, and participate in educational programs and tours of the refuge.

For information about Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge, contact the refuge headquarters, 38 Mattamuskeet Road, Swan Quarter, NC 27885, (252) 926-4021. Nearby accommodations can be found in Engelhard, Fairfield, Swan Quarter and Belhaven. For additional information about area accommodations, restaurants and events, write or call Greater Hyde County Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 178, Swan Quarter, NC 27885, (252) 926-9171, (888) 493-3826.

A visit to Wilmington will probably require more than a day if you want to do more than drive into town, walk the waterfront and return to the Crystal Coast. This upscale but laid-back river city is about 45 miles south of Jacksonville on U.S. Highway 17, about a two-hour drive from the Crystal Coast area. It's a good jumping-off point to explore several nearby beaches and attractions.

There is much to discover about this delightful city and its nearby attractions. For a complete guide to accommodations, restaurants, shopping, sightseeing and beaches, pick up a copy of the Insiders' Guide® to North Carolina's Southern Coast and Wilmington, or call (800) 955-1860 to order a copy.

There are two plantations that make for interesting side trips while in the Wilmington area. Poplar Grove Historic Plantation, (910) 686-9518, is an estate at Scotts Hill, 9 miles north of Wilmington at the Pender County line on U.S. 17. The 16-acre plantation is open to the public until mid-December and opens again in February,  but call ahead for seasonal hours. Admission to the grounds and outbuildings is free; tickets for the guided house tours are $8 adults, $7 seniors and military, $5 for students age 6 to 15, and free for children age 5 and younger. Poplar Grove also hosts special programs and events throughout the year, such as the Classy Chasis Car Show and Country Flea Market in July, Herb and Garden Fair, the Christmas Open House and the most popular — the Halloween Festival the last two weekends in October. Poplar Grove Plantation is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Orton Plantation Gardens, just south of the city and a few miles off U.S. 17, is halfway between Wilmington and Southport on NC Hwy. 33. The gardens feature brilliant azaleas, Luola's Chapel (built in 1915) and an exterior view of Orton House, built in 1725. The house is one of the region's oldest historically significant residences in continuous use. The plantation gardens are open March through November. Admission is $9 adults, $8 for ages 60 and older, $3 ages 6 to 16, and free for children younger than 6. For information, call (910) 371-6851.

Several beaches and attractions are a few minutes drive from downtown Wilmington. Fifteen minutes from the town hub lies Wrightsville Beach, which is primarily a family beach and small island community that features a number of quality hotels, motels, apartments, cottages, condominium developments and many marvelous seafood restaurants.

Down U.S. Highway 421 is Carolina Beach, best known for its wide, uncrowded shore, swimming, surfing, pier fishing and deep-water charter-boat fishing. Its shops, water slides, boardwalk and family amusement park offer something for everyone. Carolina Beach State Park, on the Intracoastal Waterway at Carolina Beach, is known for its collection of diverse plants, including the endangered Venus flytrap. The state park has 761 acres with a marina, picnicking spots, hiking trails and a camping area. Call (910) 458-8206 for general information or (910) 458-7770 for the marina.

Continuing down U.S. 421 is Kure Beach, a site convenient to several attractions. It is adjacent to Historic Fort Fisher and is less than 2 miles from the N.C. Aquarium at Fort Fisher. The Fort Fisher State Historic Site on U.S. 421, (910) 458-5538, is near the mouth of the Cape Fear River and includes the remains of the old fort, a visitors center and gift shop, a museum with items salvaged from blockade runners and a reconstructed gun battery. It's a must-see for the Civil War and history buffs of the family. Nearby, N.C. Aquarium at Fort Fisher highlights the theme "Waters of the Cape Fear." Features include a half-acre conservatory, the Coquina Outcrop touch pool and a 250,000-gallon ocean aquarium, with two-story, multi-level views of sharks, stingrays, eels and more. The aquarium offers a complete schedule of educational programs, including two daily dive presentations. Call (910) 458-8257 for more information about topics and schedules.

Back to the river city of Wilmington. This historic town is home to one of North Carolina's two deep-water ports. During the Revolutionary War, Wilmington gained importance as a point of entry, and its port was the last one on the Atlantic coast open to blockade runners during the Civil War. Continuous restoration and preservation make the town a history-buff's delight. Its fast-growing population includes many students who attend the state university, UNC-Wilmington.

Almost everyone who visits Wilmington includes a tour of the Battleship North Carolina, (910) 251-5797, www.battleshipnc.com, located on the Cape Fear waterfront across from historic downtown Wilmington. Commissioned in 1941, the 44,800-ton, 728-foot warship wielded nine 16-inch turreted guns among its arsenal and carries nickel steel hull armor 16 to 18 inches thick. It was this platform that helped her survive at least one direct torpedo hit in 1942. The battleship, which came to its present home across the river from the downtown area in 1961, stands as a reminder of history and of the 10,000 plus North Carolinians who lost their lives in World War II. The Battleship is open for tours 365 days a year. From Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, it's open from 8 AM to 8 PM; from Labor Day through Memorial Day it's open 8 AM to 5 PM. The self-guided tour begins with a 10-minute orientation film. The entire experience will give you a true feel for what life was like aboard this vessel. You can visit the bridge, the Admiral's cabin, the crew's quarters, the galley and sick bay, the engine room and the radio central area. Tours cost $12 for adults and children 12 and older, $10 for seniors, active and retired military, and $6 for children ages 6 to 11. Children 5 and younger get in free. Ticket sales end one hour prior to closing. Keep a lookout for old Charlie, the alligator who makes his home beside the ship in the marsh. The Battleship North Carolina Visitors Center has exhibits of the crew's recollections and WWII artifacts as well as a great gift shop.

Serving southeastern North Carolina since 1962, the Cameron Art Museum has assembled an important collection of North Carolina art and become a showcase for national and international exhibits. This 42,000-square-foot facility is located at the intersection of Independence Boulevard and 17th Street Extension, (910) 395-5999. Designed by architect Charles Gwathmey, the museum offers galleries complete with paintings, ceramics and sculptures ranging from the eighteenth century to the present. Cameron Art Museum also offers a number of cultural programs and has become a center of learning for both adults and children in the area. After touring the expansive permanent collections and intriguing featured exhibitions, stop by the Museum Shop for a keepsake and then have lunch at The Forks restaurant. Museum admission is $8 for adults, $3 for ages 2 to 12, and free for children younger than 2. Museum members get in for $5.. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday; call for hours.

The Bellamy Mansion Museum of History & Design Arts, 503 Market Street, (910) 251-3700, is a classic Victorian example of Greek Revival and Italianate architecture. The mansion, a stewardship property of Preservation North Carolina, currently houses a museum of the design arts, embracing regional architecture, landscape architecture, preservation and decorative arts. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM and Sunday from 1 to 5 PM.  Admission is $10 for adults and $4 for children ages 5 to 12. The last tour of the day starts at 4 PM.

Cape Fear Museum of History and Science, 814 Market Street, (910) 798-4350, is a must for history buffs. The long-term exhibition "Waves and Currents: The Lower Cape Fear Story" follows the progress of the Lower Cape Fear from settlement to the twentieth century and presents an expansive picture of southeastern North Carolina's heritage. Scenes come alive with life-size figures and miniature re-creations of Wilmington's waterfront c. 1863, and the Fort Fisher Battle paints a picture of antebellum and Civil War times. Interactive children's activities, videos, changing exhibitions and special events add vitality to this learning experience. Personal items belonging to retired basketball great Michael Jordan are on display in the Michael Jordan Discovery Gallery, which also features an interactive natural history exhibit for the entire family. Special science programs for the entire family also are scheduled throughout the year. Admission is $6 for adults, $5 for seniors and military with ID and $3 for children ages 3 to 17.

Built in 1855-1858, the Thalian Hall Center for the Performing Arts, (910) 343-3660 or (800) 523-2820, is the only surviving theater designed by John Montague Trimble, one of America's foremost nineteenth-century theatre architects. Located at 310 Chestnut Street, the City Hall/ Thalian Hall building has had the unusual distinction of serving as both the area's political and cultural center. Listed with the National Register for Historic Places and with the North Carolina Division of Archives and History, historic Thalian Hall has, since its 1990 renovation, become the centerpiece of the city's thriving civic and arts community. The renovated and expanded complex, housing both the restored opera house theater and City Hall, provides three excellent performance spaces: the Main Stage Theatre, with reserved seating for 575 and additional gallery seating for 100; the 225-seat Council Chambers Ballroom and the versatile 100-seat Studio Theatre. The lobby and technical support areas combine state-of-the-art technical facilities within the beauty and grandeur of an exceptional historic theater. Each year, Thalian Hall hosts over 475 performances and events, with more than one of the three facilities frequently in use simultaneously.

For shopping, Wilmington's downtown streets are lined with unique stores and restaurants. Be sure to check out The Cotton Exchange, 321 N. Front Street, (910) 343-9896. Housed in eight restored nineteenth-century buildings on the waterfront, it features distinctive shops and several good restaurants. Also worth noting are the Chandler's Wharf Shops at 2 Ann Street and 225 S. Water Street, which feature garden ornaments, jewelry, candles, gifts and more. Independence Mall at Oleander Drive and Independence Boulevard, (910) 392-1776, is home to more than 150 stores and boasts a 400-seat food court.

For an overnight stay, Wilmington has a number of fine chain hotels, and delightful bed and breakfasts are bountiful in the downtown historic district. A few noteworthy examples are the Dragonfly Inn, www.dragonflyinn.com, 1914 Market Street, (910) 762-7025, (866) 762-7025; Graystone Inn, www.graystoneinn.com, 100 S. Third Street, (910) 763-2000, (888) 763-4773; C. W. Worth House, www.worthhouse.com, 412 S. Third Street, (910) 762-8562, (800) 340-8559; Rosehill Inn Bed and Breakfast, 114 S. Third Street, (910) 815-0250, (800) 815-0250; and Hoge-Wood House Bed and Breakfast, 407 S. Third Street, (910) 762-5299.

The river city abounds with fine restaurants offering delectable food. Some that come highly recommended are Elijah's, www.elijahs.com, in Chandler's Wharf, (910) 343-1448; The Pilot House, overlooking the river at Chandler's Wharf, (910) 343-0200; and the Underground Sandwich Shoppe, 103 Market Street, (910) 763-9686. But these are only a few of the many wonderful eateries available.

In early April, Wilmington's annual Azalea Festival draws visitors from miles around. Hundreds of lovely, old Southern homes are surrounded by blooming azaleas and huge trees draped with Spanish moss. The entire community gets in on the act, with home tours, parades, contests and citywide celebrations.

For information, call (910) 794-4650. When you're downtown, stop at the Cape Fear Coast Convention & Visitors Bureau, 24 N. Third Street, (910) 341-4030 or (800) 222-4757, for answers to specific questions while you're in the Cape Fear area. Complete area information is available at www.insiders.com/wilmington.
 

Saving the Battleship
North Carolina

Almost everyone who visits Wilmington includes a tour of the Battleship North Carolina, located on the Cape Fear waterfront across from historic downtown Wilmington. Commissioned in 1941, the 44,800-ton, 728-foot warship wielded nine 16-inch turreted guns among its arsenal and carries nickel steel hull armor 16 to 18 inches thick. It was this platform that helped her survive at least one direct torpedo hit in 1942. The battleship, which came to its present home across the river from the downtown area in 1961, stands as a reminder of history and of the more than 10,000 North Carolinians who lost their lives in World War II. The battleship is open for tours 365 days a year. From Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, it's open from 8 AM to 8 PM; from Labor Day through Memorial Day it's open 8 AM to 5 PM. The self-guided tour begins with a 10-minute orientation film. The entire experience will give you a true feel for what life was like aboard this vessel. You can visit the bridge, the Admiral's cabin, the crew's quarters, the galley and sick bay, the engine room and the radio central area. Tours cost $12 for adults and children age 12 and older, $10 for seniors and active and retired military, and $6 for children ages 6 to 11. Children 5 and younger get in free. Ticket sales end one hour prior to closing. Keep a lookout for old Charlie, the alligator who makes his home beside the ship in the marsh. The Visitors Center has exhibits of the crew's recollections and WWII artifacts as well as a great gift shop.

Serving southeastern North Carolina since 1962, the Cameron Art Museum has assembled an important collection of North Carolina art and become a showcase for national and international exhibits. This 42,000-square-foot facility is located at the intersection of Independence Boulevard and 17th Street Extension, (910) 395-5999. Designed by architect Charles Gwathmey, the museum offers galleries complete with paintings, ceramics and sculptures ranging from the 18th century to the present. Cameron Art Museum also offers a number of cultural programs and has become a center of learning for both adults and children in the area. After touring the expansive permanent collections and intriguing featured exhibitions, stop by the Museum Shop for a keepsake and then have lunch at The Forks restaurant. Museum admission is $7 for adults, $15 for families, $2 for ages 6 to 18, and free for children younger than 5, museum members and active military. The first Sunday of each month is “pay what you can." The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday; call for hours.

The Bellamy Mansion Museum of History & Design Arts, 503 Market Street, (910) 251-3700, is a classic Victorian example of Greek Revival and Italianate architecture. The mansion, a stewardship property of Preservation North Carolina, currently houses a museum of the design arts, embracing regional architecture, landscape architecture, preservation and decorative arts. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 AM to 5 PM and Sunday from 1 to 5 PM.  Admission is $8 for adults and $4 for children ages 5 to 12.

Cape Fear Museum, 814 Market Street, (910) 341-4350, is a must for history buffs. The long-term exhibition "Waves and Currents: The Lower Cape Fear Story" follows the progress of the Lower Cape Fear from settlement to the 20th century and presents an expansive picture of southeastern North Carolina's heritage. Scenes come alive with life-size figures and miniature re-creations of Wilmington's waterfront c. 1863, and the Fort Fisher Battle paints a picture of antebellum and Civil War times. Interactive children's activities, videos, changing exhibitions and special events add vitality to this learning experience. Personal items belonging to retired basketball great Michael Jordan are on display in the Michael Jordan Discovery Gallery, which also features an interactive natural history exhibit for the entire family. Special science programs for the entire family also are scheduled throughout the year. Admission is $6 for adults, $5 for seniors and military with ID and $3 for children ages 3 to 17.

Built in 1855-1858, the Thalian Hall Center for the Performing Arts, (910) 343-3660 or (800) 523-2820, is the only surviving theatre designed by John Montague Trimble, one of America's foremost 19th-century theatre architects. Located at 310 Chestnut Street, the City Hall/ Thalian Hall building has had the unusual distinction of serving as both the area's political and cultural center. Listed with the National Register for Historic Places and with the North Carolina Division of Archives and History, historic Thalian Hall has, since its 1990 renovation, become the centerpiece of the city's thriving civic and arts community. The renovated and expanded complex, housing both the restored opera house theatre and City Hall, provides three excellent performance spaces: the Main Stage Theatre, with reserved seating for 575 and additional gallery seating for 100; the 225-seat Council Chambers Ballroom and the versatile 100-seat Studio Theatre. The lobby and technical support areas combine state-of-the-art technical facilities within the beauty and grandeur of an exceptional historic theatre. Each year, Thalian Hall hosts over 475 performances and events, with more than one of the three facilities frequently in use simultaneously.

For shopping, Wilmington's downtown streets are lined with unique stores and restaurants. Be sure to check out The Cotton Exchange, 321 N. Front Street, (910) 343-9896. Housed in eight restored 19th-century buildings on the waterfront, it features distinctive shops and several good restaurants. Also worth noting are the Chandler's Wharf Shops at 2 Ann Street and 225 S. Water Street, which feature garden ornaments, jewelry, candles, gifts and more. Independence Mall at Oleander Drive and Independence Boulevard, (910) 392-1776, is home to more than 150 stores and boasts a 400-seat food court.

For an overnight stay, Wilmington has a number of fine chain hotels, and delightful bed and breakfasts are bountiful in the downtown historic district. A few noteworthy examples are the Dragonfly Inn, www.dragonflyinn.com, 1914 Market Street, (910) 762-7025, (866) 762-7025; Graystone Inn, www.graystoneinn.com, 100 S. Third Street, (910) 763-2000, (888) 763-4773; C. W. Worth House, www.worthhouse.com, 412 S. Third Street, (910) 762-8562, (800) 340-8559; Rosehill Inn Bed and Breakfast, 114 S. Third Street, (910) 815-0250, (800) 815-0250; and Hoge-Wood House Bed and Breakfast, 407 S. Third Street, (910) 762-5299.

The river city abounds with fine restaurants offering delectable food. Some that come highly recommended are Elijah's, www.elijahs.com, in Chandler's Wharf, (910) 343-1448; The Pilot House, overlooking the river at Chandler's Wharf, (910) 343-0200; and the Underground Sandwich Shoppe, 103 Market Street, (910) 763-9686. But these are only a few of the many wonderful eateries available.

In early April, Wilmington's annual Azalea Festival draws visitors from miles around. Hundreds of lovely, old Southern homes are surrounded by blooming azaleas and huge trees draped with Spanish moss. The entire community gets in on the act, with home tours, parades, contests and citywide celebrations.

For information, call (910) 794-4650. When you're downtown, stop at the Cape Fear Coast Convention & Visitors Bureau, 24 N. Third Street, (910) 341-4030 or (800) 222-4757, for answers to specific questions while you're in the Cape Fear area. Complete area information is available at www.insiders.com/wilmington.