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Blackbeard's Wonderful Revenge

 

Ecology Tours

North Carolina Coastal Federation
Events and Programs
3609 N.C. Hwy. 24, Ocean
(252) 393-8185

The North Carolina Coastal Federation (NCCF) is the state's only non-profit organization focused exclusively on protecting and restoring the coast of North Carolina through education, advocacy and habitat restoration and preservation. NCCF headquarters is located in Ocean between Morehead City and Swansboro. The headquarters includes offices, information displays, a nature gift shop, the Daland Nature Library, the Weber Seashell Exhibit, the ShoreKeeper Learning Center and nature trails. They also have volunteer opportunities to plant wetlands plants and restore oyster reefs throughout the year, for those interesting in taking a hands-on approach to coastal restoration.

The Nature Library houses more than 800 nature and coastal titles suitable for all ages, as well as videos and periodicals. Area guests are welcome to browse in the library, and NCCF members can check out books for up to three weeks. More than 300 North Carolina and Atlantic coast seashells are on exhibit at the headquarters as part of the Weber Seashell collection. A printed guide is available. The Nature Shop features environmental and coastal books for readers of all ages, as well as coastal puzzles, games and educational gifts.

Visit NCCF's two Nature Trails in Carteret County, which are open to the public every day during daylight hours. The Patsy Pond Nature Trail in the Croatan National Forest is located directly across from NCCF headquarters in Ocean and features a long-leaf pine forest with spectacular shallow ponds. Visit a globally endangered maritime forest and NCCF's oyster sanctuary while hiking the Hoop Pole Creek Nature Trail located in Atlantic Beach off N.C. Highway 58 next to the Atlantic Station Shopping Mall. Maps are available at the trail heads.

NCCF'S staffers conduct educational programs throughout the season, including oyster-reef building, shoreline plantings and summertime estuarine ecology trips at Cape Lookout National Seashore. To learn more about any of these programs, call NCCF at (252) 393-8185 or visit www.nccoast.org. NCCF also has an attractive specialized license plate, available through the N.C. Dept. of Motor Vehicles. Purchase of the NCCF license plate gives a $20 donation to NCCF.SS 12-31-08

Pelican Ecology Tours
Morehead City Waterfront, Morehead City
(252) 504-2447

If you really want to get to know the Crystal Coast, you must explore it from the water with a knowledgeable guide. And Pelican Guided Ecology Tours is just the one to call. The Pelican is captained by Paul Dunn, an easy-going man with more than 25 years experience fishing and boating in the area waters. Once aboard the 23-foot boat, you will be off for a memorable journey — just be ready to get some hands-on experience! This is a tour that will have you in and out of the boat using seines, dip nets and throw nets to catch and study live specimens. You'll stop on islands and beaches to look for seashells, sand dollars and driftwood or to snorkel. Capt. Paul will show you how to use a clam rake and, hopefully, you'll end up with some bounty for your supper. Along the way, you may see bottle-nosed dolphin, sea turtles, nesting osprey, waterfowl of all types, the ponies of Carrot Island and Shackleford Banks as well as the Cape Lookout Lighthouse and more. Capt. Dunn enjoys many repeat customers, and they continue to recommend Pelican Guided Ecology Tours to others. The Pelican can accommodate up to six individuals, and each trip is planned to meet your individual interests. Capt. Paul's fee is $300 for up to six people. The typical trip is six hours of easy-going fun and education. This is a great way to take a close look at the sounds, marshes, barrier islands and beaches that are only accessible by boat. Trips are by reservation only. SS 12-31-08

 

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State and National Parks

The Crystal Coast is fortunate to have national, state and local parks scattered from one border to the other. Here, we offer a look at national and state parks. County and city parks are described in our Sports, Fitness and Parks chapter. Our coastal parks will fascinate you with historic interest and natural beauty, so get out there and enjoy them.SS 12-31-08

Fort Macon State Park
 N.C. Hwy. 58 N, Atlantic Beach
(252) 726-3775

Fort Macon State Park highlights Fort Macon, one of the most complete forts of the Civil War era in the United States. It is totally intact, covering about five acres on the tip of Bogue Banks, where it was located to protect the channel and Beaufort Harbor from attacks by sea. Structurally, the fort is in great shape following a four-year restoration and renovation that was completed in 2003. The park also offers Fort Macon Beach and is one of the most visited state parks in North Carolina. With an estimated 1.3 million visitors a year, it is by far the most visited site of any attraction on the Crystal Coast.

Walking on the wide path to the fort, a visitor comes to the huge wall and moat, 24 feet deep, that was intended to be flooded with seawater as another obstacle to attackers. Crossing the moat bridge, a visitor is drawn back into the reality of what life was like in such forts. Huge cannon emplacements still surmount the ramparts, and two mortars stand out amid the interior, which also has vaulted ceiling casemate rooms where the garrison lived. Reenactments are held in April, July and September.

The critical defense location had been considered before, with Fort Dobbs, named for Governor Arthur Dobbs, begun in 1756 but never completed. In 1808 and 1809 Fort Hampton, a small masonry fort, was built to guard the inlet. Hampton was abandoned shortly after the War of 1812 and by 1825 had been swept into the inlet.

Fort Macon was designed by Brig. Gen. Simon Bernard and built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers between 1826 and 1834 at a cost of $463,790. The fort was named for Nathaniel Macon, who was speaker of the House of Representatives and a U.S. Senator from North Carolina. The five-sided structure was constructed of brick and stone with outer walls 4.5 feet thick. The fort was deactivated after 1877 and then regarrisoned by state troops in 1898 for the Spanish-American War. It was abandoned again in 1903, was not used in World War I and was offered for sale in 1923. An Act of Congress in 1924 gave the fort and the surrounding land to the state of North Carolina to be used as a public park. The park, which is more than 400 acres, opened in 1936 and was North Carolina's first functioning state park.

At the outbreak of World War II, the Army leased the park from the state and, once again, manned the fort to protect a number of important nearby facilities. In 1946 the fort was returned to the state, and the park reopened the following year.

Today, Fort Macon State Park offers two great features — beautiful, easily accessible beaches for recreation and a historic fort for exploration. Visitors enjoy the sandy beaches, a seaside bathhouse and restrooms, a refreshment stand, designated fishing and swimming areas, and picnic facilities with outdoor grills. The park is full of wildlife, including herons, egrets, pelicans, warblers, sparrows and other animals.

The fort itself is a wonderful place to explore with a self-guided tour map or with a tour guide. Restored rooms and a bookstore offer exhibits to acquaint you with the fort and its history. The fort and museum are open daily year round. Fort tours are guided through late fall. Reenactments of fort activities are scheduled periodically from spring to fall. Talks on the Civil War and natural history are conducted year round. The fort offers a free summer concert series — call the fort office for this season's schedule. The fort is open daily from 9 AM to 5:30 PM except for Christmas day. Admission is free.SS 12-31-08

Theodore Roosevelt Natural Area
MP 7, Roosevelt Dr., Pine Knoll Shores
(252) 726-3775

This little gem of woods surrounds the North Carolina Aquarium on Roosevelt Drive in Pine Knoll Shores and borders N.C. Highway 58 as it winds through Bogue Banks. Maintained by the aquarium staff and North Carolina State Parks, the 300 acres have extensive maritime forests and freshwater ponds. The family of President Theodore Roosevelt donated the land to the state. The forest attracts naturalists, birders and photographers. There are two trails through the natural area: the Alice G. Hoffman Trail, accessed through the aquarium, and the Theodore Roosevelt Trail, beginning outside the aquarium at the southern end of the parking area. The soundside trails are good places to see land birds. The salt-marsh overlook areas on the aquarium's Salt Marsh Safari boardwalk leading to the Alice G. Hoffman Trail can be good areas for sighting wading birds and migratory waterfowl, depending on the time of year. However, marshes along this section of Bogue Banks are not extensive, so shore and waterbird sightings can be spotty. SS 12-31-08

Rachel Carson Component of the North Carolina
National Estuarine Research Reserve
135 Duke Marine Lab Rd., Beaufort
(252) 728-2170

Just across Taylor's Creek from the Beaufort waterfront is a series of islands approximately 3.5 miles long that make up the Rachel Carson National Estuarine Research Reserve. Most locals refer to the entire chain of islands as Bird Shoal or Carrot Island, although the site is really composed of Carrot Island, Town Marsh, Bird Shoal, Horse Island, Sand Dollar Island and Middle Marsh.

In the early 1970s Congress recognized the need to protect coastal resources from pollution and the pressures of development. The nation's estuaries were particularly vulnerable. Through the Coastal Zone Management Act of 1972, Congress established a National Estuarine Research Reserve System to protect coastal areas for long-term research, education and stewardship. The National Estuarine Research Reserve System is a partnership program between the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the coastal states. It protects more than one million acres of estuarine land and water, which provides essential habitat for wildlife; offers educational opportunities for students, teachers and the public; and serves as living laboratories for scientists. The island chain across from the Beaufort waterfront is a designated National Estuarine Research Reserve and is named in honor of the famed scientist and author Rachel Carson, who conducted research on the islands in the late 1930s and, through her research and writing, made people aware of the importance of coastal ecosystems. The reserve has many appealing features, including extensive tidal flats, eel grass beds, salt flats and a self-guided trail for visitors, but the site is best known for the horses that live there.

The Rachel Carson Reserve is home to a herd of 42 feral horses. They are descended from domesticated horses taken to the islands in the 1940s to graze. Today they roam the sandy expanse, living in small bands called harems, each consisting of one stallion, several mares and the year's foals. Bachelor males roam the island alone or in pairs. These are either older stallions that have lost their harem to a younger, stronger male or young stallions who have not yet challenged the dominant males.

The Rachel Carson site is a favorite spot for beach combing, swimming, sunbathing and clamming but camping is not allowed and dogs are required to be on a leash. Visitors are encouraged to leave everything — the animals, plants and research equipment — undisturbed.

Reserve education staff and specially trained volunteers conduct tours of the reserve every Tuesday through Thursday from June to September. Tours leave by boat from the Reserve Education Office located on Pivers Island (in west Beaufort). Call (252) 838-0883 to make a tour reservation. School groups are also welcome to arrange for special tours throughout the year. A self-guided trail brochure is available at the Reserve Education office, the N.C. Maritime Museum or ferry service offices. Kayaks are available for rent along the Beaufort waterfront, and many people make a day of paddling around the island. An information sign about the reserve is displayed on Front Street in Beaufort across from the Inlet Inn.SS 12-31-08

Hammocks Beach State Park
1572 Hammocks Beach Rd., Swansboro
(910) 326-4881

Venture to Hammocks Beach State Park on Bear Island and be rewarded with one of the most beautiful and unspoiled beaches in the area. The park consists of a barrier island off the southernmost point of Bogue Banks and a small area off N.C. 24 just south of the residential area of Swansboro, where the visitors center and ferry landing are located. Watch for state directional signs. The island is accessible only by boat or ferry (see our Getting Here, Getting Around chapter), and camping is allowed (see our Camping chapter). There is a small fee for the ferry to Bear Island, which operates from April through October. Contact the visitors center for the ferry schedule and rates. Ranger programs are conducted for visitors.

Loggerhead turtles come ashore at Bear Island at night during the summer nesting season to make nests above the tide line. Explorers can observe marine life in tidal creeks and mudflats. Outdoor showers, restrooms and drinking water are available to visitors. Go prepared to shade yourself and take along refreshments. It is a half-mile walk from the ferry landing to the ocean beach. Pack light with day packs and beach supplies, since wagons and carts are not allowed on the ferry boats. Whether you spend an hour or a whole day, the trip is always worthwhile.SS 12-31-08

Cape Lookout National Seashore
Headquarters, 131 Charles St., Harkers Island 
 (252) 728-2250

Cape Lookout National Seashore is one of America's few remaining undeveloped coastal barrier island systems. It encompasses about 28,500 acres of islands, most of which run roughly parallel to the eastern shores of Carteret County. The system is bounded on the north by Ocracoke Inlet and on the south by Beaufort Inlet. Four islands make up the 56-mile seashore: North Core Banks, also known as Portsmouth Island; Middle Core Banks; South Core Banks (including Cape Lookout); and Shackleford Banks. While each of the islands is distinctive in history and characteristics, all four are remote and virtually unspoiled by the hands of man.

Congress authorized Cape Lookout National Seashore to be included in the National Park System in 1966. The National Park Service (NPS) maintains authority over the seashore. Stopping first at Park Headquarters on Harkers Island is a good idea before you take off for the islands. The attractive visitor center, open seven days a week from 9 AM to 5 PM except for December 25 and January 1, provides a wealth of information to visitors. Of particular interest is the video that gives information about barrier islands and their special characteristics. Park rangers and volunteers can answer questions about transportation (only by boat), camping, kayaking and more. You cannot access the seashore from the Park Service Headquarters because the NPS does not provide a ferry service. However, several private ferries operate from Harkers Island, Beaufort, Morehead City, Davis, Atlantic and Ocracoke. Limited ground transportation on the islands can be arranged with the ferry operator prior to departure, as can accommodations. For more information on getting to the islands, see the Ferries section of our Getting Here, Getting Around chapter. For information about the on-island accommodations, see the write-ups for Morris Marina Kabin Kamps and Great Island Cabins in our Hotels and Motels chapter.

Bear in mind, when planning a visit to any of the islands, that they really are undeveloped. No amenities, drinking water, fast-food concessions or places to buy beach umbrellas or suntan lotion are available. Whatever you need for your trip, you must bring with you, and when you leave, you must take everything out with you. See our chapter on Camping for more details.

The seashore's pristine ocean beaches are an incomparable escape for anglers, sunbathers, surfers, snorkelers and shell collectors. Other recreational pursuits in the park include picnicking, primitive camping, migratory waterfowl watching and hunting.

The area is noted for its natural resources. Birds and animals are the only permanent residents. Loggerhead sea turtles nest on the beaches each summer and seldom nest any farther north. The park is an internationally recognized bird habitat area. Raccoons, rabbits, nutria, a variety of insects, snakes and lizards are also among the park's permanent residents. Ghost crabs, mole crabs and coquina clams populate the beaches.

The Cape Lookout Lighthouse, 2 miles from the southern tip of South Core Banks, is still an active aid to navigation. The first lighthouse was built on Core Banks in 1811-12 and was painted with red and white stripes. But the current lighthouse, completed in 1859, wears a distinctive black and white diamond pattern. Visitors are welcome in the restored lighthouse keepers' quarters, which houses a small museum featuring exhibits on the lighthouse and its keepers. Orientation and information, as well as sales area that carries books, souvenirs and water are also provided at the Light Station Visitor Center. Other associated structures are also preserved near the lighthouse where there are shelters for picnicking, a swimming beach and a boardwalk that leads from the lighthouse area, over the dunes, to the ocean beach. The lighthouse is currently not open to public climbing.

At the northernmost end of Core Banks at Ocracoke Inlet is the Historic Portsmouth Village. The village was established in 1753 to serve as the main port of entry to several coastal communities. Named for Portsmouth, England, the port village was busy with "lightering" incoming vessels, an unloading and reloading process that allowed vessels to pass through the shallow Ocracoke Inlet. During its heyday in the 1860s, the village had a population of 600. After Hatteras Inlet opened, and in the wake of the Civil War, the village became less important in its port services. From 1894 to 1938, the population of Portsmouth centered on fishing and the U.S. Life-Saving Station. After a severe hurricane in 1933, the village population declined, and by the early 1970s, no year-round residents remained. Today, Portsmouth Village looks much like it did in the early 1930s. Some of the homes are still leased by former descendants and a reunion of descendent's, family, friends and the public every other year in Portsmouth Village. Structures that are not under historic leasing are maintained by the Park Service as visitor centers and museums with exhibits to be installed in the summer of 2009 at the Dixon-Salter Visitor Center, school, post office and U.S. Life-Saving Station. Portsmouth Village was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979.

Looking east from Fort Macon, Shackleford Banks is the island across Beaufort Inlet. It stretches 9 miles east to Cape Lookout (South Core Banks) and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the south and Back Sound on the north. The island's sound side has long been a favorite weekend destination for residents escaping the peopled mainland beaches. The rock jetty is a favorite spot for anglers. Shackleford Banks officially became part of Cape Lookout National Seashore on the first day of 1986. Until then, the island was dotted with cabins or camps that former banks' residents and their descendants used as getaway shelters.

The acquisition of Shackleford Banks meant removing the structures and the livestock that had been left to roam the island. Before 1986, the island was home to hardy herds of wild cattle, sheep, goats, pigs and horses. Only the horses remain today. These famous horses have roamed free for centuries. The exact route of the ancestors of these small, hardy horses to this barrier island is unknown, but genetic research shows evidence of Spanish ancestry in the herd. More than 100 horses roam the island, having divided themselves into harems (one or sometimes two stallions, some unrelated mares and their foals) and bachelor bands (males without harems). These groups of horses find their own food on the island; they are sometimes found in the maritime forest, but mostly graze in the marshes, swales and dunes. Fresh water is available in numerous pools and swales along the length of the island. The horses are managed in as much of a hands-off manner as possible, though some horses are removed for adoption. The horses are co-managed by the National Park Service and the Foundation for Shackleford Horses Inc., an organization formed to protect them on the island. Visitors should remember that they are wild animals and, for your safety and their well-being, the horses should not be approached.

Shackleford Banks was named for John Shackleford, who purchased the land (which became the island) in 1723. Permanent residents once populated communities on Shackleford. New England whaling vessels visited the area as early as 1726. By 1880, six crews of 18 men from Diamond City were whaling off the banks' shores. The whalers were a hardy people and included the Davis, Moore, Guthrie, Royal and Rose families — names still common in Carteret County. Whaling was the backbone industry of this island. Local merchants sold the oil as lamp and lubricating oil or used it to make soap. Whale bone was valuable in making corset stays, ribs for umbrellas and other items. They sold the rest of the whale to be used as fertilizer. The largest community on Shackleford was Diamond City, at the east end of the island. By 1897, about 500 people populated this community, which included church buildings, stores and a school. The population grew in the 1850s because of a boom in the whaling industry. East of Diamond City, across what is now Barden's Inlet, was the Cape Lookout Light Station. West of Diamond City was Bell's Island, a settlement known for bountiful persimmon trees. The western part of Shackleford Banks was known as Wade's Shore. Two hurricanes that closely followed each other in 1896 and 1899 convinced most island inhabitants to move to the mainland. Many moved their homes by boat to Harkers Island or to the Promised Land section of Morehead City. Others resettled in the Bogue Banks community of Salter Path.SS 12-31-08

Cedar Island National Wildlife Refuge
879 Lola Rd., Cedar Island
(252) 225-2511

This 14,480-acre wildlife refuge on the southern end of Cedar Island is administered by Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge, (252) 926-4021, and provides areas for hiking, bird-watching, launching boats, picnicking and duck hunting. There is a refuge employee on duty, and, while ranger services are not available, the employee can answer questions about the refuge from the Cedar Island number. Waterfowl abundant during the year are mallards, black ducks, redheads, pintails and green-winged teal. Other wildlife at home in the refuge are raccoons, whitetail deer, black bears, woodpeckers and river otters. In the spring and fall, this is a delightful picnicking and bird-watching destination. The Cedar Island Wildlife Refuge was formed in 1964 under the Migratory Bird Act to provide a sanctuary for migratory birds. The access is well-marked on Cedar Island. Turn on Lola Road and follow it to the refuge office. One boat ramp is at the end of Lola Road and another is at the base of the Monroe Gaskill Memorial high-rise bridge. SS 12-31-08

Croatan National Forest
141 E. Fisher Ave., New Bern
(252) 638-5628

Located between New Bern and Emerald Isle, the Croatan National Forest is made up of 161,000 acres and features coastal and inland swamp habitats. The Croatan Forest is home to the largest collection of carnivorous plants in any National Forest and it is near the northern range limit of the American alligator. It also has an amazing collection of bugs. Much of the forest is characterized as swampy with thick underbrush. It is perhaps not a forest suited for everyone, but it is very attractive to area fishermen and hunters and is popular for its hiking trails, boat launches, campgrounds and day-use areas.

The forest spreads in a triangle between Morehead City, Cape Carteret and New Bern. Forest headquarters are on Fisher Avenue, approximately 9 miles east of New Bern off U.S. Highway 70. Well-placed road signs make the office easy to find. Because the Croatan is so expansive and undeveloped, it is best to pick up a forest map from the headquarters if you plan to explore extensively. For short day trips or hiking excursions, site brochures are sufficient.

The name Croatan comes from the Algonquian Indians' name for "Council Town," which was once located in the area. Because of the forest's coastal location, you'll find many unusual features here. Some of the components of the ecosystem are pocosin, longleaf and loblolly pine, bottomland and upland hardwoods.

Sprinkled throughout the Croatan are 40 miles of streams and 4,300 acres of wild lakes, some fairly large, such as Great Lake, Catfish Lake and Long Lake. Miles of unpaved roads lace through the woodland, providing easy, if at times roundabout, access to its wilderness.

The forest offers excellent hiking, swimming, boating, camping, picnicking, hunting and freshwater and saltwater fishing. Boat access is provided at several locations. Rangers advise that lake fishing is generally poor because of the acidity of the water. All fishing, hunting and trapping activities are regulated by the N.C. Wildlife Resources Commission. A kids' fishing day is generally held in July and specific information is available by calling the Ranger Station. The forest has several camping sites (see our Camping chapter) that are open throughout the year. Primitive camping is permitted all year, and sites are plentiful. Some areas of the forest close seasonally, and fees can vary, so call headquarters for current rates and availability.

As with all national forests, the Croatan's natural resources are actively managed to provide goods and services for the public. Pine timber is harvested and replanted each year, and wildlife habitat for a wide range of animals is maintained on thousands of acres. Endangered and sensitive animal and plant species are protected. The red-cockaded woodpecker is among the endangered animals that find safety here. More common animals are the southern bald eagle, alligators, squirrels, otters, white-tailed deer, black bears, snakes and wild turkeys.

The area is known for its beautiful wildflowers, including five types of insectivorous plants, a combination rarely seen elsewhere. Among the insectivorous plants are pitcher plants, round-leaved sundew, butterworts, Venus flytraps and bladderworts, all of which die if removed from their natural habitat; it is against the law to disturb them. Pamphlets about the wildflowers and insect-eating plants are available at the forest headquarters.

Summer fires, whether spontaneous in nature or controlled for forest nurturing, are common and as a result, few public education programs are offered during the typical tourist season. The insect-eating plants that proliferate in pocosin habitats are actually fire dependent, another reason not to try to take them home. After a good burning, they're well-nurtured and hungry for bugs. Nature is stranger than fiction.

The forest features several trails ranging in length from 1.4 miles to 20 miles. It also offers a 110-mile Saltwater Adventure Trail that offers paddlers a seven-day trip to visit every point of interest or just a one-day trip to visit only a few. Visit the USDA National Forest Service website for recreation overviews, maps and trail information or call the Ranger's Office for further details.SS 12-31-08

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